Las Vegas Weekly

September 24, 2008 · 2:48 PM

The Too Hot Tamales makeover at mod-Mex Border Grill

By Robin Leach

With a dramatic redesign, the Too Hot Tamales have given an entirely new look to their two-story Border Grill restaurant at Mandalay Bay. Chef owners Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger have even added a modern twist of 17 new menu items to their classic Border Grill dishes. With executive chef Mike Miner in charge of their kitchen they’ve created a collection of fresh, exotic ceviches and a new class of upscale enchiladas, chile rellenos, tacos and tortas.

I’ve known these two fabulous femme foodies since we launched the Food Network back in the early 90s and they’ve remained great friends ever since. Susan gave me the sneak-preview tour.

They’ve installed a state-of-the-art audio/video walnut bar with plasma TV’s embedded into the black steel wall and both the new modern dining room and outdoor patio are opened up instead of being closed off behind walls and glass. A giant 8-foot steel fan powers an all-new patio cooling system. There are colored acrylic retractable walls, giving them the opportunity to expand the space or create private dining areas for large groups. Environmentally conscious before it became a rage, Susan and Mary Sue have created unique rammed earth exterior walls – and even the updated margaritas now use organic agave nectar – meaning it's SUGAR FREE!!!!. The staff has been kitted out in new uniforms with a modern, fitted twist on the Latin guayabera shirts in dramatic black and white embroidery.

Photo: Courtesy photo

Border Grill restaurant

Photo: TVT

Susan Feniger at Border Grill with other chefs in the kitchen.

I joined a group of food critics and restaurant reviewers to work my way through such delights as Mazatlan seafood cocktails of shrimp, bay scallops, black mussels in spicy tomato garlic broth with cucumber, cilantro and jicama; plus the grilled apricot glazed chicken with Peruvian purple potatoes, wild mushroom ragout and cilantro pesto plus the slow roasted chicken in a handmade corn tortilla with roasted poblano peppers and poblano cream – all followed by flourless chocolate truffle cake. Is this decadent or what? Is this what we’ll munch on menu-wise in heaven?

Susan and Mary Sue have authored five cookbooks and they appeared on almost 400 Food Network episodes of Too Hot Tamales and Tamales World Tour. They even appeared in the 2001 movie Tortilla Soup. Strong food charity and culinary association supporters, they are also dedicated to teaching food and have hosted their own two-hour talk show every Sunday since 1996 on KFI radio in Los Angeles. In addition to the flagship Border Grill in Santa Monica, they also own and operate Ciudad restaurant in downtown Los Angeles. They have always been champions for the environment and have stepped up their efforts in all their restaurants recently.

“We only serve sustainable seafood here,” Susan told me. “We do not serve tuna or swordfish and as part of the Seafood Watch program we give our customers little pocket-sized seafood guides. It helps educate them about sustaining seafood and staying away from fish with high mercury content. We also boycotted Canadian seafood because of that country’s commercial seal hunting program. We do not use any products containing artificial trans fat. We use organic black beans and our chicken, beef and uncured pork is all raised without hormones and antibiotics.”

Now Susan is going to jump into her debut solo venture titled "Street," an ambitious Asian street food concept to be launched this February in Los Angeles.

Photo: TVT

Susan Feniger at Border Grill.

Photo: TVT

Susan Feniger at Border Grill.

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