Las Vegas Weekly

November 2, 2009 · 12:49 PM

Counter Intelligence: Major shakeups in our restaurant scene

By Robin Leach

Chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Photo: Jacob Snavely

Wicked whispers and racy rumors hot off the grill! It’s been a week of massive, unexpected turmoil in our Las Vegas fine-dining industry -- some shocking surprises, to say the least. I’ve had to keep the identities secret to protect the innocent and to not expose the guilty, but the food and beverage executives are in disbelief at the major changes.

The most stunning change was the supposed resignation, firing and instant rehiring of one F&B head honcho for the outlets at one super and major hotel complex. Bowl me over! The beloved executive served 18 years in the industry, and the past few were at sister properties along the Strip overseeing as many as six award-winning restaurants and 18 other outlets.

Before he was rehired back in his position within 24 hours to at least the beginning of the New Year, when he’ll be allowed to resign, the overseer president hired another F&B executive to take his place. So in this high-tension, cost-conscious, corporate jungle, there are now two people -- one male, one female -- carrying out the same duties. How’s that for confusion as you come down to the wire? It sure has the industry abuzz about the deadline pressures of exactly what’s going on there.

I’m sad to report that a partner and general manager at a newly acclaimed restaurant at one of two indie hotels on the Strip has gone. Out with him, they said! The executive has had a successful career launching new dining adventures on the Strip -- and suddenly seems to be on the outs when all the tough lifting has been accomplished.

Photo: Kirvin Doak Communications

Pierre Gagnaire's restaurant Twist.

Eyebrows were raised when one celebrity chef last week revealed that he wouldn’t be staying on at one Strip property when his current five-year contract ends at year’s end. Eyebrows were further raised when it was learned a day later that he’s signing on with an archrival at the outposts in Macau and Singapore. Double-barreled shotgun!

Now wait for the eyebrows to shoot sky-high when I confide that it was all part of a package that has the star chef literally crossing the road to wind up at a rival’s Las Vegas headquarters with a new restaurant. That begs the question as to which restaurant might be pushed out to accommodate him.

Meantime, we are all eagerly awaiting the arrival of France’s top toque and three-star-Michelin-acclaimed chef Pierre Gagnaire to open his last word in luxury restaurant Twist atop the plush, swank Mandarin Oriental in CityCenter next month.

I am reliably informed that Pierre isn’t sparing one cent to make his Parisian outpost here the most mind-blowing restaurant in America. One stunning purchase is the $1,000 dinner plates made with jade that will adorn the tables when customers are seated! The first 20 for the private dining room cost $20,000!

At least we ended this Counter Intelligence on an up, albeit, pricy note!

Robin Leach has been a journalist for more than 50 years and has spent the past decade giving readers the inside scoop on Las Vegas, the world’s premier platinum playground.

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