Las Vegas Weekly

February 11, 2010 · 5:50 PM

Counter Intelligence: Rick Moonen’s top-notch Tuesdays and Top Chef

By Robin Leach

Rick Moonen.

Photo: MGM Mirage

Celebrity chef Rick Moonen has launched a $65 gourmet tasting night at his RM Seafood in Mandalay Bay that might well be the best original deal in the Southwest. It’s certainly the best five-course food in town for the unbelievably reasonable price. Rick wanted to launch a fine dining concept in the upstairs private portion of his two-story eatery where he and genius executive chef Adam Sobel decided what they wanted to shop for at market, cook and prepare and serve for guests.

How they do this for the price is beyond belief! It is truly amazing, and foodies are raving about the taste treats, the unique food offerings and the bill at the restaurant of Oprah Winfrey’s favorite seafood chef.

Rick told me: “I wanted to make people think about their food and where it comes from. We’re having fun in the kitchen doing only what we want to do and what hasn’t ever been attempted before. Some of the food is deconstructed and then put back together and served in a totally unique way never seen before.”

Photo: TVT

Rick Moonen and Adam Sobel look for a few new ideas.

I can testify to that because at the restaurant that’s shaped like a ship, I ordered Onion Soup 3000, and not only had I never seen soup served that way, but it also was the best I’ve tasted. Can you imagine fried spaghetti as a bite-sized sampler as a bed for miniature steak and eggs? And Waygu Beef Tartare with crispy potato skins. Frozen sake is served with foie gras. How do the chefs take a scallop and turn it into a brilliant fan presentation? The crab with risotto is pure genius.

Check out the five-spice roasted pork belly titled China Pig or the slow-cooked veal breast with black truffles. Yes, it’s all for $65, no surprises. I wholeheartedly recommend the baked Tasmanian ocean trout and then the tropical fruit creme brulee for dessert because they’re exceptional. You have never seen food prepared and presented this way or tasted so good -- that’s a promise!

Incidentally, this theatrical production has a continuing surprise through dinner right at your table. The vase is an interactive experience that starts out simply with a stalk of lemongrass. It begins to come alive during service with basil, mint, syrup and green tea additions. Then after dessert, it’s “fired” with liquid nitrogen, and the vase bubbles up producing an amazing aperitif to end the meal.

Photo: Helena Ruffin

Susan Feniger samples her cuisine.

Rick returns to Top Chef

Three of my favorite Las Vegas chefs have been chosen for the April 7 Season 2 start of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters. I was sworn to secrecy about their casting three weeks ago, but it’s official now that Rick will return for a second time -- he’s one of six returning chefs to face the heat of the kitchen. Appearing for the first time will be David Burke, who has a restaurant in The Venetian, and Susan Feniger, whose Border Grill is in Mandalay Bay.

Susan worked with me on the Too Hot Tamales shows when we started The Food Network. They are the three locals to watch among the 22 competitors who will sharpen their knives before eliminations start to chop away at the line.

Secrecy worthy of Pentagon and CIA status is wrapped around the outcome because all the episodes but the finals have been filmed and kept under lock and key until broadcast. The chefs aren’t allowed to breathe one word of the outcome or even the episode outcomes. The winner receives $100,000 for the charity of choice and takes over the Season 1 winner’s crown held by Chicago’s Rick Bayless.

Robin Leach has been a journalist for more than 50 years and has spent the past decade giving readers the inside scoop on Las Vegas, the world’s premier platinum playground.

Follow Robin Leach on Twitter at Twitter.com/Robin_Leach.

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Follow VDLX Editor Don Chareunsy on Twitter at Twitter.com/VDLXEditorDon.

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