Las Vegas Weekly

September 23, 2010 · 5:54 AM

Photos: Panevino offers monthly wine dinner affairs to remember

By Don Chareunsy

Panevino Ristorante's August 2010 wine dinner featured the Puglia region of Italy.

Photo: Don Chareunsy

By Don Chareunsy, Vegas DeLuxe editor

Monthly repetition in the form of mortgage payments, electricity bills and doctor’s appointments is not at the top of the list of life’s pleasures. At Panevino Ristorante, however, a monthly meal is a repetition to be treasured -- and with a twist. The Italian restaurant each month hosts a wine dinner series that showcases not only fine wine, but also cuisine of one of Italy’s some 20 unique regions.

August’s spotlight at Panevino shined on the Puglia region for the five-course, prix fixe meal to be savored. I don’t speak Italian, so, fortunately, the dinner and wine are explained in a menu accompanying dinner, as well as by the refreshingly informed and engaging staff.

The first course was Burrata con Zucchine alla Poverella (Burrata served with crispy zucchini, with mint, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar) paired with 2008 Tormaresca Chardonnay. The Burrata was bountiful and complemented by the olive oil and vinegar, and the zucchini was a flash-fried standout, light and flavorful.

The second course was Calamaretti alla Gallipolina (baby calamari in a lightly spicy tomato sauce with olives, pine nuts, golden raisins and garlic ciabatta crostini) paired with 2007 Forte Canto Negroamaro Rosato (black and bitter and aromatic). The baby calamari was tender -- not rubbery, like a typical squid -- and the sauce thankfully was not an overly rich tomato concoction.

The third course was Orecchiette con Rucola, Salsiccia, Pomodorini e Ricotta salata (small ear-shaped pasta with arugula, Italian sausage, cherry tomatoes and ricotta) paired with 2007 Cantele Primitivo (the spice is more on the note, earthy and a little more elegant in style). The pasta and sausage are favorites in the Puglia region.

The fourth course was Braciole alla Barese con Frittelline di Cavolfiori (thinly pounded beef rolled with pancetta, pecorino cheese, garlic and parsley served with crispy cauliflowers) paired with 2003 Tormaresca Castel del Monte “Boca di Lupo” Aglianico (nice, full bodied and powerful, from older vines). The rolled beef was a unique presentation, and the delicious crispy cauliflowers stole the show.

The final course was Semifreddo di Fichi D’India con Kiwi e Lamponi (prickly pear Semifreddo with kiwi and raspberries) paired with 2003 Rivera “Piani di Tufara” Moscato di Trani (sweet, and offering a clean and crisp finish). Served on a red glass plate, the prickly pear was a refreshing end to a meal that was adventurous, flavorful and simply fabulous.

Charming General Manager Vincenzo Granata takes pride in welcoming patrons to his ristorante at 246 Via Antonio -- he welcomes them more like family members -- and checks in throughout the evening without being obtrusive. Granata was particularly expert in August’s wine dinner because he hails from the Puglia region of Italy. Wine Director Robb Horesovsky took the time to explain each wine pairing at the beginning of the course and was relatable to amateurs and wine aficionados.

The countdown begins until the next highly anticipated wine dinner event. In fact …

Italy’s Abruzzo region Sept. 30

Panevino’s next monthly five-course dinner and wine pairing is Sept. 30, with the cuisine of the Abruzzo region of Italy taking the spotlight. Robust and rustic mountain dishes (lamb, pork and veal) and seafood specialties (salmon, swordfish and tuna), common in Abruzzo, are the focus of the gourmet prix fixe evening that begins at 7 and is $99 per person. Seating is limited, and reservations are required.

Robin Leach has been a journalist for more than 50 years and has spent the past decade giving readers the inside scoop on Las Vegas, the world’s premier platinum playground.

Follow VDLX Editor Don Chareunsy on Twitter at Twitter.com/VDLXEditorDon.

Follow Robin Leach on Twitter at Twitter.com/Robin_Leach.

Follow Vegas DeLuxe on Twitter at Twitter.com/vegasdeluxe.

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