Las Vegas Weekly

January 19, 2009 · 10:32 AM

Sinatra and The Cafe: A dueling review

By John Katsilometes

Following is a dual review of Sinatra’s at Encore and The Café at the Eldorado Casino on Water Street in downtown Henderson. I ate at both restaurants last week, hitting Sinatra’s on Wednesday night and The Café on Friday afternoon.

I mean, who lives like this?

The following notes about each restaurant will be specified by an “S” for Sinatra and a “TC” for The Café.

Ahem:

You can’t go wrong with the pasta or the Ossobuco, though the latter can sit a little heavy (S).

You can’t go wrong with a single cheeseburger cooked medium, but the double cheeseburger might well kill you for its pure volume (TC).

Introduced by popular demand, the alcohol-loaded, highly flammable Sinatra Slammer cocktail (S)!

Back by popular demand, the $4.99 Belly Bomber (TC)!

A big ship crafted from small beads hangs above the bar (S).

A slight guy with somewhat beady eyes just cut in front of me to get the last available booth (TC).

Displayed in the entrance it the Oscar for From Here to Eternity a Grammy and a photo of Steve Wynn with Ol’ Blue Eyes (S).

Displayed near kitchen at the back of the restaurant is a giant, plastic shrubbery (TC).

“Strangers in the Night” plays as background music. (S)

“That waitress kind of looks like Mia Farrow!” (TC)

The décor and lighting are muted, and the booths are dark orange, Sinatra’s favorite color (S).

The booths are purple-ish, and lighting is bright enough to turn you dark orange if you hang around for more than 90 minutes (TC).

The chef is the acclaimed Theo Schoenegger (S).

The cook is the acclaimed Walt (last name withheld), with whom I’ve played softball for seven years and who is an acclaimed pitcher who has also bowled a perfect game in league play (TC).

Appetizer: Biete E Arance, baby beets, goat cheese, blood orange vinaigrette for $18 (S).

Appetizer (or just fine as an entrée), the ENDLESS Soup & Salad bar for $6.99 (TC).

“Charge to your room, sir?” (S).

“Square up up front, Hon.” (TC)

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