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Dining

Meaterific menu stars at Sassy Sal’s barbecue shop

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The Sassy Sal’s Works Burger really does have everything but the kitchen sink (which might be lurking under the brisket).
Photo: Beverly Poppe

There’s a tiny barbecue shop called Sassy Sal’s way out in the northwest tip of the Vegas Valley, and things are different here now. The restaurant has new ownership, new cooks, a new menu, even a new logo, and everything seems to be an improvement— especially the logo. A flaming pig beats a cowgirl any day of the week.

The original owners ran computer repair companies, which didn’t really translate into delicious barbecue. The new folks have a lot more culinary experience, and it shows with a quick scan of the menu. All the staples are here—baby back ribs, pulled pork, chicken and brisket—but there are several unique touches to let you know a little extra time and attention is being paid to the food. The meats are smoked over oak, and the kitchen is cooking up a variety of different sauces to match those meats. So there’s Carolina mustard sauce for chicken, zesty Texas BBQ sauce for brisket and more. Perhaps they should have changed the name to Saucy Sal’s.

The Details

Sassy Sal's
7785 N. Durango Drive, 458-7427.
Sunday-Monday, 3-9 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Doing the little things right will go a long way at this neighborhood joint, like well-seasoned French fries, scratch-made cornbread and extra-giant chicken wings with Helldorado habanero sauce. It’s familiar stuff with unrelenting flavor, and they’re going crazy with sandwiches, piling on rich, tender meat to excess. The Oakie Pig sandwich is topped with dill pickle relish, creamy coleslaw and Buffalo wing sauce, an odd but rewarding combination. There’s a “heart attack” grilled mac and cheese sandwich on Texas toast with more pulled pork, more melted cheddar and crispy onions. Whew.

There’s also a killer spicy hot link, peppery, garlicky and addictive. It’s fine by itself, but you can get it on a sandwich with that Carolina sauce, or better yet, on a sampler plate with pulled pork, chicken or rib tips. Even the side dishes come with a little twist, like grilled corn (only when it’s in season) served with cilantro-lime butter and coleslaw done two ways. It’s an over-the-top place to eat, but

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Brock Radke is Las Vegas Weekly's food editor and author of the Strip-focused column The Incidental Tourist. He has written ...

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