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Taste

Rice Trax stands out among local Hawaiian joints

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Rice Trax Teriyaki Grill’s garlic bento box is loaded with garlic chicken, beef teriyaki, Spam and a hot dog.
Photo: Corlene Byrd

The Details

Rice Trax Teriyaki Grill
7780 S. Jones Blvd., 269-7439.
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Las Vegas has its share of good Hawaiian joints, most of which offer fairly standard plate lunches. Rice Trax is different. Although the owners are Oahu natives, they mostly forego traditional island fare for an interesting Japanese-influenced menu.

Start with the Sin City Shrimp ($6), spicy sautéed shrimp on a bed of guacamole. The shrimp’s heat balances the guac’s coolness, and while guacamole is neither Japanese nor Hawaiian, this dish is worth checking out.

The restaurant’s most unique aspect is its fried rice bar. Choose between vegetable ($7), chicken ($7.50) and shrimp ($8.25), then pick from 16 ingredients including zucchini, jalapeños, corn, peas and, for 50 cents extra, pork and kimchee. The choice is yours, so bask in the power.

Any of the bento boxes ($9.45) should feed two, with choices of garlic, mochiko, furikake or katsu curry. Each has a multitude of meat, most of which is fried. The garlic bento is the most “local” friendly, with a quartet of traditional Hawaiian proteins—garlic chicken, beef teriyaki, Spam and a hot dog. The beef is particularly exemplary and not overly cloying. A nice touch: Steamed rice is topped with furikake, a welcome addition to a standard side. You can substitute fried rice ($1.25) or macaroni salad (50 cents) in any box, with the latter among the best I’ve had in town.

Tags: Dining
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