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An ode to late-night prime rib

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Is Primarily Prime Rib the best restaurant name ever?

Prime rib. You know it from the carving station at your favorite buffet, or from special-occasion restaurants that specialize in this regal, fatty cut of beef. Local hubs include Lawry’s (4043 Howard Hughes Parkway, 893-2223) and the aptly named Primarily Prime Rib (South Point, 796-7111). I’d add the surprisingly good cut at Oscar’s (Plaza, 386-7227).

But to truly enjoy the unnecessary indulgence of prime rib, you gotta have it in the late/early hours at a well-worn casino coffee shop. I’m talking about Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop (Jerry’s Nugget, 399-3000), where you can feast on a pink-in-the-middle English cut with all the fixings, 24/7, for 14 bucks. If you make it before midnight, Magnolia’s Veranda (Four Queens, 385-4011) has it for $11.95, an off-menu special. Breakfast? That’s for kids. If you really wanna close your night and kill your hangover, nothing works like a thick slab of roasted beef swimming in its own juices. Extra horseradish, please.

Tags: Dining
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Brock Radke is Las Vegas Weekly's food editor and author of the Strip-focused column The Incidental Tourist. He has written ...

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