How can you tell which of our indistinguishable neighborhood sushi spots are worth your time, money and ravenous raw-fish appetite? Most times it’s a crapshoot, but at Soho in the deep southwest, there are two factors in your favor: First, it’s a lovely restaurant, spacious, warm and bright. Second and more important, it’s the creation of chef John Chien Lee, who helped open the consistently great Social House restaurant way back when it first appeared at TI. He’s all-pro, and this sprawling neighborhood is fortunate to have stolen him from the Strip.
Soho’s sashimi is supreme, from the rainbow of fishy flavors in the lunchtime bento box ($8.50) to the strips of yellowtail in yuzu soy ($10), dabbed with tiny tempura jalapeño coins. At dinner, slide through exciting special cold dishes like salmon and ikura in wasabi creme and lemon vinaigrette ($9) or garlic-dusted tai lemongrass ($11), then split some gyoza ($5) filled with beef and Chinese leeks and the luscious, bone-in Angus short ribs ($19). Mix and match surf and turf at will at Soho. You’re in good hands.
Soho 7377 S. Jones Blvd., 776-7778. Monday-Saturday, noon-10 p.m.