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Taste

M&M still dishing out comforting Southern cuisine

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An ideal meal: smothered chicken with plenty of sides and banana pudding for dessert at M&M Soul Food.
Photo: Steve Marcus

The Details

M&M Soul Food
3923 W. Charleston Blvd., 453-7685.
Daily, 7 a.m.-8 p.m.

M&M Soul Food is a Valley institution. The friendly tuxedo shirt-clad staff has been serving Southern staples for almost a decade, and it’s easy to figure out why folks keep coming back.

Breakfast choices include catfish, pork chops, and liver and onions, but the chicken and waffles are my favorite. M&M’s consists of juicy, well-fried wings served alongside ethereal, oblong waffles with just a hint of cinnamon. Now here’s a tip for making sure each bite gets you the right balance of meat and sweet: Tear the chicken off the bones, layer it on the waffles and smother the combo in syrup.

Lunch and dinner feature a similar entrée array served with a variety of sides—and with a bonus: complimentary cornmeal griddle cakes. These may be one of the Valley’s best free treats, airy, slightly sweet cakes delivered in pairs to go with whatever you order.

M&M does chicken particularly well—the juicy baked and barbecue versions fall right off the bone—but the overall highlight may be the oxtail, rich meat smothered in hearty gravy. As for sides, skip the pedestrian green beans for the vinegary collard greens. Even better are the mashed potatoes, chock full of butter and as good as any this side of Comme Ça. Try to save room for dessert, as M&M has a great sweet-potato pie. Either way, you won’t leave hungry.

Tags: Dining
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