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Dining

Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast is worth the wait

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Centennial Hills has a cozy new restaurant to call its own.
Photo: Corlene Byrd

When Metro Pizza opened its Centennial Hills location last year—a restaurant in the works for several years—it was welcomed with an avalanche. The surrounding northwest neighborhood attacked, starving for family-friendly grub and service above the level of cookie-cutter franchises. Partly because of that scary-fast deluge, the owners of Metro held off on officially opening their adjoining bakery-café concept, Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, until everything was just right.

As the old proverb goes, all guava croissants come to those who wait. Every day brings a fresh assortment of pastries, muffins, cookies and artisan breads; please try not to drool on the glass case enclosing these treasures. If there were nothing else but strong coffee and these lovingly baked goodies, Lulu’s would be a hit. But there’s a lot more. If you were lucky enough to get a bite from the short-lived but peerless Lulu’s on the Move food truck, you won’t be surprised by this food, a collection of bliss-inducing, homey dishes that dance along the spectrum of brunch.

Start with stuffed French toast ($6), a sinful, custardy creation with apples baked in. Barely recognizable as French toast anymore, it has morphed into something like a bread pudding-Dutch baby hybrid, morning decadence at its best. There’s syrup, but don’t bother. Just wake up early and run a few miles, so you can feel like you deserve this.

The apple-stuffed French toast at Lulu's is barely even French toast anymore, more of a decadent bread pudding-ish creation.

There are also all kinds of egg sandwiches, like the S.O.B. ($7.50) with chicken-chorizo, green chilies and avocado, or the Capitol Hill ($6) with American cheese, grilled bologna and grilled onions. Clearly these guys are having fun, all the more reason to try the specials. On my first visit, there was an awesome Benedict over thick French country bread, layers of bacon, cheese, thinly sliced potatoes and runny eggs, everything a growing me needs.

Though mostly salads and sandwiches, Lulu’s lunch shows impressive range. If you still want a sweet and savory combination at noon, there’s a turkey and brie sandwich ($8.50) with apples and fig jam melting on and around walnut raisin bread. The food truck always did great things with pulled pork, and the restaurant drops it on a baguette with cilantro and pickled vegetables ($7.50) and tosses it all over house-made “dirty” potato chips ($6) with cotija cheese and hollandaise sauce. For a lighter yet equally delicious side dish, try cous cous laden with seasonal vegetables.

Lulu’s is not yet as busy as its big brother Metro, but it’s only a matter of time. The cozy décor features reclaimed brick walls and a couple different communal tables, one of which—the silvery serpentine one—is stocked with outlets for those looking to plug in and camp out. After a thorough sampling, I’m ready to make this spot my permanent office. Turns out the Weekly doesn’t serve chocolate-toffee-pretzel cookies and fresh lemonade as an afternoon snack, so off to Lulu’s I go.

Lulu's Bread & Breakfast 6720 Sky Pointe Drive, 437-5858. Daily, 7 a.m-4 p.m.

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Brock Radke is Las Vegas Weekly's food editor and author of the Strip-focused column The Incidental Tourist. He has written ...

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