Merkato offers Ethiopian favorites you might not realize you’ve already enjoyed
Wed, Oct 27, 2010 (8:25 p.m.)
Photo: Beverly Poppe
Entering Merkato, you’re immediately immersed in the sights, sounds and smells of another land—foreign tongues and frankincense blend in the background. Don’t fear, though; further investigation will lead you to some familiar dishes, albeit with slightly more unique flavor profiles.
A good starting point is the yemisir sambusas ($1.50), akin to Indian samosas. The tasty, deep-fried, lentil-stuffed puff pastries provide an ideal introduction to Eastern African cuisine. Another dish that might resemble more familiar food is the yebeg wot ($8.50), a robust lamb stew masquerading as a buttery, smoky curry. This dish, like all of Merkato’s main courses, is served both atop and alongside injera, traditional spongy Ethiopian bread not unlike a crepe, which serves as both your serving platter and utensil.
- Merkato Ethiopian Cafe
- 855 E. Twain Ave., 796-1231
- Daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
Another déjà vu experience awaits in Ethiopian staple kitfo, steak tartare’s bolder brother. My favorite is the special kitfo ($8.50), made with spinach and lab (Ethiopian cheese). I suggest washing down its spiciness dish with a Meta Beer ($3.50), a traditional Ethiopian lager that presents a nice balance of sweetness and malt.
Service is friendly but casual, so be prepared to linger for a bit. And make time for the traditional coffee ceremony ($15.00 for up to 10 people). This half-hour tasting of three progressively weakening cups of coffee roasted before you is a perfect way to wrap up your Ethiopian experience. Talk with friends over coffee—what could be more familiar than that?