Las Vegas Weekly

An ode to uni

All hail the uni at Sushi Roku

Photo: Beverly Poppe

In the second episode of Lost, survivor Hurley opted for starvation over sea urchin. I turned to my wife and asked, “Why couldn’t I have been on Flight 815?” I’d gladly battle a smoke monster for a shot at ocean-fresh uni.

I’ve dreamt of urchin as I’ve slept. I’ve ordered it for dessert. If I were on death row, I’d choose it for my last bite. Everything about it rocks my world: the complex flavors, the spongy consistency, the indelible aftertaste. Sometimes I close my eyes while I chew to fully savor the experience. Two or more orders and my “uni buzz” is still with me an hour after finishing.

But beware: Just as there’s nothing better than great urchin, there’s little worse than bad urchin. I avoided the stuff like crazy after a couple of subpar experiences when I first began delving into sushi. And then a friend insisted I try again. Thank God I did. Or maybe I should say, thank Uni.