Bite Now: Parma’s Greens Juliana
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 (9:39 a.m.)
Photo: Brock Radke
- 7591 W. Washington Ave. #110, 233-6272.
- Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Chef Marc Sgrizzi has done it again. The proprietor of the wonderful neighborhood Italian joint Parma—and Novecento Pizza, coming soon to Centennial Hills—is known for his nightly specials, and I was getting ready to write about one (ahi tuna bolognese) when I discovered a new one. Greens Juliana is on the menu now, and hopefully forever, as a starter, but it's really a perfect side dish to share with your able. Did I eat the whole plate myself? I did.
It's a simple dish, but those are always the best. Fresh, slightly bitter escarole is sauteed in garlic and olive oil until it wilts, then the Parma kitchen crew mixes in hot and sweet peppers and crisp pancetta, adding vinegary and savory notes to the rich greens. It's finished with a topping of breadcrumbs and parmesan, which gets broiled to crispy perfection. It's kinda like that golden brown, must-have crust on top of macaroni and cheese, only this is on top of a bunch of delicious vegetables, which will make you feel less guilty for eating so much of it. It's a wonderfully satisfying bite, a great winter dish without weight. But it's heavy on flavor.