Twists come standard at 28GO
Wed, Feb 6, 2013 (2:45 p.m.)
Photo: Leila Navidi
Pork ravioli, cold yogurt sake and a beer pong table with balls that wash themselves. It’s not a list for an impossible scavenger hunt; it’s 28GO. Chef Ty Suksangasophon named his fusion restaurant after a robot superhero, and the menu is accordingly brave. “I wanted to have a little more freedom in food,” he says. “I was burnt out with the norm.”
- 4632 S. Maryland Parkway #12, 895-9899.
- Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Thanks to small plates (and prices), you can roam from Thailand to Japan or Korea to the American heartland, sometimes in the same dish. Buttery waffles come stuffed ($7-$8) with melon custard, sweet chicken curry or garlicky bulgogi beef. Herbal ramen ($8.50) offers the “all-natural Red Bull” of roots, pods and petals flavored with honey dates and tropical longan fruit. Blue crab sliders ($9.50) are eye-crossingly good, the panko-crusted cakes and fresh tomato drizzled with citrus-scallion sauce, wasabi-lime aioli and balsamic glaze on pillowy Hawaiian bread toasted till the sugars caramelize.
Another standout is the 28GO Roll ($7), a sushi riff that wraps grilled scallion and braised pork belly in housemade kimchee, the chili and fish sauce intensifying from the base of the leaf to the tip. Plating encourages that progressive experience of the dish, which is finished with sweet soy, togarashi (black sesame and dried chili) and Hot28 sauce.
Each creation shows Suksangasophon’s flair for playful marriages and presentation, hinting at his ongoing study of fine art at UNLV. He says that students are some his best customers, adding, “I love the fact that they trust in our adventures.”