Las Vegas Weekly

This is a vast, expensively decorated restaurant, staffed by captains in classy black suits and gauchos who slice meat from skewers brought to the table on rolling carts.

Tasting your way through the "gourmet table" and leaving room for the rodizio is a chore. I found the chicken stroganoff, which tastes suspiciously of mustard and cream, a bit strange. But the Afro-Brazilian dish bobo de camaron, composed of shrimp and yucca root, is great, as is moqueca, a Bahian seafood stew based on coconut milk and fiery spices.

Hopefully, you’ve come through all of this with your appetite intact, because there are 18 meats coming your way, each one worthwhile. The cooking philosophy here is simple. Red meats, except lamb, are simply salted, in order to bring out the flavor. Other meats, such as chicken and turkey, are marinated in white wine, garlic and spice, in the Brazilian fashion.