Story Archive

The best chicken in Vegas

Wednesday, Nov. 11, 2009

Namaste's tandoori chicken is the best in Vegas, a revelation when eaten with garlic naan.

Choose-your-own burger adventure

Grind Burger Bar & Lounge takes DIY burgers off the Strip

Wednesday, Oct. 28, 2009

The idea is a fail-safe one: DIY burgers with plenty more to like.

A pizza primer

Our food expert breaks down the perfect pie

Thursday, Oct. 22, 2009

Thick or thin, soft or crispy, sharp or mild, pizza is something we all love.

All Thai’d up at Sakun

There’s tough competition here, sure, but make room for scrumptious Sakun

Tuesday, Oct. 6, 2009

At this tiny Thai storefront, a bilingual menu reveals wonders like beef salad Lao-style, glass noodles with crab claw and Thai pork stew. Let's put it this way, Max Jacobson is a regular.

Proper pastrami

Tommy offers thick, tasty deli sandwiches ... by Vegas standards

Tuesday, Sept. 22, 2009

What survive in today’s idiom of Ashkenaz—or Eastern European Jewish—foods are pastrami, corned beef and matzo ball soup, although credible versions are hard to find, even in Vegas. See how Tommy Pastrami matches up.

No sticky wicket here

Garfield’s takes a tasty trip around the world—from its lake-side perch

Thursday, Sept. 10, 2009

Garfield’s might just be the only place in the city that would look equally at home in Barbados, but the menu is eclectic here, featuring French, Italian and American fare, with hints of North Africa and Asia along the way.

Italian shake-up

Caffe Dolce remakes traditional dishes in appealing new ways

Thursday, Aug. 27, 2009

So few Italian places bring anything new to the table, not so at Caffe Dolce.

Make room for Anthony’s

Florida chain’s arrival adds more fuel to Vegas’ coal-oven pizza fire

Thursday, Aug. 13, 2009

Coal-oven pizza is something of a religion in New York’s SoHo; the coal oven creates a blackened crust, chewy, bubbly and yielding. It’s really all about the crust.

Fishing for lunch

RM’s midday menu splashes down as one of Vegas’ absolute best

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Update your lunch with RM Seafood's deliriously good Vidalia onion and bacon quiche, esteemed clam chowder and raw-bar done right.

Bosa truly is No. 1

For Vietnamese food, look no further than this unassuming Vegas joint

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Bosa 1 is a Vietnamese restaurant that doesn't serve pho. But don't let that deter you.

From Russia with love

Matryoshka is a Cold War throwback, but its food will warm you up

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Most of us know what matryoshka are, right? Well, they are those cute Russian nesting dolls as well as Las Vegas’ newest Russian restaurant.

Eclectic pub fare

Set among chains galore, Bar Louie stands out

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Too much of a good thing is anathema in the restaurant world. So, in spite of the fact that I enjoyed myself at Bar Louie, the place puzzles me.

Room for improvement

The Edge of Town shows promise, but falls short too often

Thursday, May 7, 2009

One thing that differentiates us from larger American cities is the absence of the gastropub, a concept that has already taken root in New York, Chicago and LA.

Comfort food all night long

The Bar is mostly above-average fare, but—oh!—the meatloaf sliders!

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Another killer—if you don’t mind the metaphor—here is “angry” mac ’n’ cheese, which gets its dudgeon from the addition of jalapeños, and has a nice, bubbly top crust. If you like crab cakes, The Bar does the genre proud.

An epic experience

Thai Pepper boasts a menu with more than 150 items—most of them worth trying

Thursday, April 23, 2009

All the dishes I tried at Thai Pepper were interesting, and some were downright terrific. I started with a beef soup that I’ve never seen on a Thai menu in this country called kao-low - funky in the extreme and definitely not for the faint of heart.

Well done

Rare is a terrific steak house with a killer wine list to boot

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Beef is still, apparently, what most people want for dinner. One busy Thursday evening, thanks to a porthole in the wall above my table, I could hear noisy conversation in the bar area, the restaurant was rocking, and juicy, nicely charred steaks appeared to be starring on every table.

Pour some Bourbon on it!

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Carl’s Jr. has debuted its new Kentucky Bourbon Burger... don’t even think about the calorie count.

Finding its beat

Rhythm Kitchen can improve, but some sensational dishes make it worthwhile

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Most of the time, if I see an ambitious new restaurant, I pull for it consciously and subconsciously. Rhythm Kitchen is currently our only upscale restaurant with a New Orleans theme that doesn’t belong to Emeril. That makes me pull for it all the more.

Personality crisis

Maru serves Korean and Japanese--we recommend the former

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Last week, I led with information about a Korean taco truck that is sweeping Los Angeles, so it got me in the mood for Korean food. That led me to Maru, the newest and handsomest Korean restaurant in the city.

Tacos, tequila ... sorry, lost our train of thought

T&T offers two great tastes that taste great together

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Tacos are cheap, versatile and delicious, so there is always an audience for them, on- or off-Strip. The newest Mexican concept in town is called T&T, an acronym for tacos and tequila. Okay, get your mind out of the gutter.

Do not pass Goa

The decor at India’s Grill is nothing to brag about, but the food is extraordinary

Thursday, March 19, 2009

India’s Grill is a dreary-looking restaurant in a dreary part of town. Why then, is my mouth watering whenever I think back to what I ate there?

Carpe Deia!

There’s a little something for everyone at the French- and Spanish-themed Café Deia

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Man cannot live by tapas alone, newly evidenced by Café Deia, which serves an eclectic combination of French, Spanish and just plain made-up fare, most of it delicious.

Staying in character(s)

Beijing Noodle No. 9 offers the real deal, right down to the language on the menu

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Most of my Chinese friends have one drop-dead criterion for eating in a Chinese restaurant: The menu must have some of the dishes written in Chinese characters.

Great view, great food

Carmine’s on the Hill benefits from its owner’s attention to detail

Thursday, Feb. 26, 2009

Last week I found myself in the United Kingdom, ushering four Chinese friends on a mini-tour.

Bun and games

You’ll find fewer creative burger joints than BLT Burger

Thursday, Feb. 12, 2009

Perhaps you just have to be French, like star chef Laurent Tourondel, to get this wacky with burgers.

Are you game?

Thursday, Feb. 5, 2009

For anyone heading up to Brian Head, Zion or points north in Utah, a stop at the wild-game restaurant the Gun Barrel is a delightful surprise.

Unusual name, great food

Pips does Italian right (and reasonably priced) at Aliante Station

Thursday, Jan. 29, 2009

Take one highly seasoned food and wine professional. Then add a brilliant young chef and a sleek modern design. The result is Pips at the Aliante Station Casino, so far one of this year’s big surprises.

Turkish delight

Ibo fills a much-needed niche in Vegas’ food scene

Thursday, Jan. 22, 2009

I've been reviewing restaurants since 1984, and if one great cuisine has been sorely absent from my columns, it is the glorious cooking of Turkey.

Spicing up the suburbs

Henderson’s first Indian restaurant has goat curry—and so much more

Thursday, Jan. 15, 2009

Where does one go for a decent goat curry? I hear you cry. Taza, Henderson’s first Indian restaurant, has one every day on its bountiful lunch buffet.

Who needs dinner?

The Sunday brunch at Simon is arguably the finest in the city

Thursday, Jan. 8, 2009

I hate brunch, but the way I feel right now, I wouldn’t mind eating one at Simon Restaurant & Lounge every week for the next 10 years.

Green Valley gets cracking

Thursday, Jan. 8, 2009

Fans of hearty sit-down breakfasts, take heart. The popular Cracked Egg has opened in the mall housing Smith’s, on Green Valley Parkway adjacent to the 215.

Viva Via Brasil!

We dare you to save room for dessert amid all the meat (and more)

Wednesday, Dec. 31, 2008

Suddenly, there is a wealth of churrascarias, or Brazilian-style barbecues, in the city, none more unabashedly authentic than Via Brasil, which spells Brazil as it is in done in Portuguese.

A bite to remember

Our food critic ranks the 10 best dishes he ate in 2008

Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2008

Despite lots of glitzy local openings, 2008 wasn’t a banner year for Vegas restaurants. But in this down economy, it seems fitting that lower-priced entrees such as sandwiches and Asian dishes ranked high on my yearly list. Nothing here costs more than $20.

Mixed vintage

The Grape’s wine and food alternately pleases and dismays our critic

Thursday, Dec. 11, 2008

There’s no denying that the wine bistro, a yuppified version of the gastropubs now springing up in major American cities, is having its day. Which brings us to The Grape at Town Square.

Oh, Mama!

China Mama serves some of the finest Eastern cuisine this side of the Great Wall

Thursday, Dec. 4, 2008

The new China Mama, a boxy, freestanding place with lime-green walls and garish red light fixtures that resemble Slinkys (if they had been made out of Lucite), does the best xiao loong bao in Vegas, and maybe anywhere between here and New York City.

Cauldron creations

North Las Vegas’ Los Molcajetes is one of the Valley’s best Mexican restaurants

Wednesday, Nov. 26, 2008

It’s been long reported, and oft lamented, that the state of authentic Mexican cuisine isn’t sufficiently robust in our town. Last year, I toured northeast Las Vegas in search of one great Mexican dinner, and failed in my quest.

East meets best

Yellowtail, the newest tenant of the Bellagio, appears headed for great success

Thursday, Nov. 20, 2008

I’ve been to Yellowtail twice now, and both times the place seemed to be firing on all cylinders. Chef Akira Back, a personable sort, is comfortable in the fusion genre, and many of these creations are tasty and original.

Small-town sensations

Boulder City is more of a foodie’s paradise than you’d think

Thursday, Nov. 13, 2008

The charming little hamlet of Boulder City has a historic downtown, lots of resident cheerleaders and, believe it or not, more than its share of decent places to eat.

Vegans beware!

Texas de Brazil is all about the meat—and lots of it

Thursday, Nov. 6, 2008

Looking around at the throngs eating giant slabs of meat with fervor at the new Texas de Brazil, my thoughts turned to Nero, who allegedly played the lyre while Rome burned.

Getting your goat

Its jerk chicken is so-so, but Goat Post Tropical Grill is great with other Jamaican food

Thursday, Oct. 30, 2008

This comely little place does breakfast, Mexican specialties and American-style sandwiches, so the kitchen is quite ambitious. And to quote Marc Antony, when he eulogized Julius Caesar, ambition can be (in this case only sometimes) a grievous fault.

A worthy indulgence

Don’t let these uncertain times stop you from treating yourself to Intimate Dining

Thursday, Oct. 23, 2008

Let’s call the menu eclectic; the chef, a passionate young Hawaiian, Don Espaniola, literally does foods from all over the planet. And he’s quick to tell you he makes virtually everything from scratch.

Small wonder

Raku serves up the best Japanese food this side of Tokyo

Thursday, Sept. 25, 2008

My first reaction to Raku, a Japanese pub restaurant on the western edge of Spring Mountain’s Chinatown, may have been undeservedly restrained.

Waistbands beware

You’ll find the city’s best deep-dish pizza—and calories—at Pie Town Pizza

Thursday, Sept. 18, 2008

Transplants love to bring their native comfort foods with them, as witnessed by the proliferation of restaurants in this Valley from places such as Hawaii and Chicago. I can say that in general, most of them are shadowy approximations of the originals, Xeroxed Xerox copies without a soul, poseurs with faded flavors, made with dodgy ingredients.

Steele yourself

The variety of options at this new tapas restaurant are pretty intimidating

Thursday, Sept. 11, 2008

Seafood paella Velazquez is surprisingly good, even if it does take a full 20 minutes to arrive. The rice is moist and chock-full of shellfish and chorizo. Cuban bites are like sliders in the form of three pint-sized Cuban sandwiches.

A (too) sweet time

The food rocks at Thai-themed Basil 'n Lime, but you may want to tell them to leave the sugar off

Thursday, Sept. 4, 2008

I had two very different experiences at Basil ’n Lime, a charming newcomer on the west side, advertising “Authentic Thai Cuisine” on its outside sign. If you’re not Thai, you’re not a favorite to get much of it, even though the kitchen is capable of producing it.

Erin go blah

McFadden's is short on ambiance and authentic pub food, but, oh!--that Reuben

Thursday, Aug. 21, 2008

The food at McFadden’s, a self-styled Irish pub that originated in New York City before expanding into a national chain, is quite good, although only marginally Irish.

The next big thing

Peru's popular dishes get their due in Henderson

Thursday, Aug. 14, 2008

Some have been touting the cooking of Peru as “the next big thing.” I don’t know if this is true, but I can say that Mi Peru, a South American grill housed in the Henderson space once home to Barbecue Masters, serves the best Peruvian food I’ve yet eaten in Vegas

A new dynasty

Noodle Exchange increases the Gold Coast's reputation for Chinese food

Thursday, Aug. 7, 2008

Who would have imagined the Gold Coast casino would be a hotbed for authentic Chinese cooking? Now the recent opening of Noodle Exchange has thrust it into the forefront of Chinese dining in Vegas, and customers are slowly getting the message.

High-concept classics

Espee's Gourmet Tamales puts a spin on an ancient formula

Thursday, July 31, 2008

When I was a university student, my anthropology professor claimed that the first takeout food in North America was the tamale, or tamal, as it is called in the Nauhatl language of southern Mexico.

Ciao Bella!

La Focaccia may just be the best restaurant we've discovered this year

Thursday, July 24, 2008

You mightn’t know it to look at me, but I occasionally work out at Las Vegas Athletic Club on South Eastern Avenue, and a mere stone’s throw away is one of Vegas’ truly great Italian restaurants, the unassuming La Focaccia.