Geologically speaking, France and Spain have been leaning into each other for centuries like two old lovers pressed together on the map. At Braseria, EDO Hospitality Group’s latest, long-anticipated endeavor, that proximity is rendered edible, a deliberate, indulgent union of flavor, technique and culinary bravado.
Making its debut in February at The Collective on Paradise, this luxe eatery feels self-assured, even a touch audacious. The menu, conceived by executive chefs Tayden Poha-Ellamar and Roberto Higuera, the menu reads like a like a cross-border dialogue, France whispering decadence and Spain replying with fire.
The cocktails impress. The Low Ride Er ($16) refracts the classic sidecar through passionfruit and Pisco; it’s bright and punchy, almost hedonistic. Hooked on a Feeling ($16) leans aromatic and playful, while the Negative Ghost Rider $12), a non-alcoholic spicy marg, switches things up with a healthy dose of habanero water.
The food is where things become particularly incredible. Hamachi crudo ($24), a must order, is enriched with a buttery foie gras mousse and sauce l’orange.
You’ll gawk over the tableside presentation of hand-cut beef tartare ($39). Carted inches from your seat, a suited server gently torches a split slab of bone marrow until it slides out and atop an awaiting circle of beef and egg yolk. It’s then mixed with additional fixings and plated with triangles of cocoa bread. Escargot ($21), reimagined with salchichón and puff pastry, nods toward comfort without abandoning its lineage.
But the star of the show, the must-try dish is undoubtedly the whole Dover sole ($88). Glossed in a yuzu-brown butter, and served with fresh lemon, capers and tiny croutons, this dish tastes like class and solace, bite after bite.
As EDO steadily continues to strengthen its reputation for developing some of the most exciting and daring cuisine in the city, Braseria feels like a natural escalation, sharper, richer and more self-possessed.
BRASERIA BY EDO 3900 Paradise Road #Z, 702-641-1345, braseriabyedo.com. Monday-Saturday, 4:30-11 p.m.
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